The Heavy Table's Jill Lewis gives the new, already insanely-packed Burch Pizza Bar two out of four stars, a "good" rating. The recently-opened pizzeria is one-half of the latest offering from Isaac Becker, of Bar la Grassa and 112 Eatery, occupying the basement of ground-level Burch Steak. While Becker and chef Daniel del Prado have come up with a menu that can "stand up to any competitor in town in terms of creativity," Lewis found the pizza itself underwheleming:
Does Burch serve good pizza? Yes. Does it serve absolutely amazing, crave-worthy pizza? Nope.
What's holding it back? The crust, which Lewis describes as "below-par." The dough, she writes, is "too soft and, well, doughy to offer the satisfyingly tender yet snappy bite that makes a magnificent pizza crust."
For the most part, the toppings are another, better story. The Funghi—topped with creamed leeks, mushrooms, and truffled boschetto (a sheep/cow milk cheese) creates "a rich—but not outrageously so—pizza that is earthy and fragrant." The Coppa Cotta—topped with roasted peppers, smoked pork shoulder, mozzarella, and hazelnuts—makes for a "symphony of smoke and sweet."
Sides are good, with the lamb meatballs a stand-out: "surprisingly juicy without an assist from sauce, the small spheres taste tender and light." The wine list is long and reasonably priced, but the short dessert list is "pedestrian" (Lewis advises to get another glass of wine instead).
· Burch Pizza Bar in Lowry Hill, Minneapolis [Heavy Table]
· All Coverage of Burch [Eater MPLS]