This week in Week in Reviews, both Heavy Table's Jill Lewis and City Pages' Joy Summers head to Uptown's newest addition, BoneYard. While the Southern restaurant got a lot of flack early on for its kitschy menu (featuring "Mama-Mo" and "Pee-Paw"), both reviewers seem to say that, hey, it's actually pretty good. First, Lewis, who gives the restaurant two stars (out of four) and says that the restaurant "actually delivers on its promise of down-home, chicken-fried, sweet-tea-spiked cuisine."
Lewis recommends the chicken and waffles (the chicken is "succulent and juicy"), the St. Louis-style ribs ("meaty, flavorful, and give you a lot to nibble"), and especially the "insanely tasty cottage fries" that accompany each sandwich or can be ordered on their own as a side. The other sides are not so good: the grits are a "gluey, globby mess" and the coleslaw is "bland."
City Pages' Joy Summers hit up BoneYard for lunch, where she found some hits and some misses. The bacon-wrapped, fried-egg-topped, fry-accompanied duck meatloaf is a carpe diem hit; the pimento-cheese-spiked mac and cheese is good, but "oddly sweet." The fried chicken seemed like it "had been languishing under a heat lamp for some time": "The skin and breading was still wonderfully crisp, but the dark meat below had shriveled."
Lastly, Heavy Table's James Norton heads to Kingfield's newly-opened sustainable sushi spot Kyatchi, where: "The menu is some good, some great, some questionable, all interesting and all expensive." Highlights include the daily nigiri ("one of the best bites of sushi we've had in quite some time ") and the "flawless" udon. But he finds that the rice overwhelms the fish in the pressed sushi, whose high price tags "feel like an overreach."
Writing about the restaurant's surprisingly chewy seaweed salad, Norton sums up his experience at Kyatchi: "As is true of much of the restaurant's menu, you've got to go to it; it won't meet you where you're comfortable. And for true lovers of food, that's no problem."
· All Week in Reviews [Eater MPLS]