This week in Week in Reviews, the reviewers have been busy. First up, the Star Tribune's Rick Nelson finds that he is not only happy to spend $8 on a hot dog at Kyatchi but that he even recommends spending the extra dollar to "dive into be-all-end-all turf" by including a "dream of an egg salad" on top. On the sustainable sushi, he writes: "The notably pristine fish radiates quality, with the added benefit that it can be consumed with a relatively clear conscience."
Nelson finds a few disappointments (the grilled mackerel, the rice bowls, the "gluey" puddings, and anything from the deep fryer), but he also praises lots more dishes (noodles, chicken meatballs, and shisito pepper skewers among them), for an overall three-star review.
At Mpls.St.Paul Magazine, Stephanie March visits BoneYard, which "is on the cusp of something" but not quite there. Positives: the "delicious" brisket and pulled pork, the "rightly spicy" hot burger, the "tender and flavorful" smoke-grilled pork chops, and the "outstanding" blueberry pie. Negatives: the "gut bomb of muddled confusion" that is both the lunch and dinner versions of the bacon-wrapped duck meatloaf and the fried chicken, which never managed to make it to the table juicy, warm, and crisp.
March does praise BoneYard for backing off its initial Southern shtick (with its constant references to Mee-Maw and Pee-Paw) and notes that the atmosphere is "both charming and cool." But overall it is not the bastion of Southern food the Twin Cities has been waiting for: "I don't think you can have an iffy fried chicken when you're hanging your hat on being Southern comfort food."
Lastly, City Pages's Emily Weiss heads over to Heyday, which she likens to the Ocean's Eleven of restaurants ("a team of talented individuals selected for their special skills and considerable experience, brought together for a single purpose"). Weiss goes through most of the menu, lauding each dish, but here's the overall takeaway:
"If you like to eat simply but adventurously, think a good cocktail should not cost $14, appreciate fine product showcased in really well-executed dishes, and like to dine in jeans and sneaks, consider Heyday your El Dorado. For our money, it's a strong contender, if not the frontrunner, for best new restaurant of the year so far."
· All Week in Reviews [Eater MPLS]