Dara on Heyday: 'Meaningfully Original'

This week in Week in Reviews, Mpls.St.Paul Magazine's Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl pays a visit to Heyday, and has incredibly positive—and some slightly racy—things to say about it. Let's just break it down dish by dish:

· The chilled blue mussels: "the most surprising, delicious, diverting dish I've had in years"; "The dish is growing, changing, morphing on your plate and in your own mouth as you eat it"

· The lamb tartare: "It's all roses, blood, spice, and sex"; "It's a dish to stop you in your tracks. It tastes like a smoldering carnal fire"

· The roast squab: "another hot and bothered concoction"; "so sensuous it almost seems illicit"

· The late-night-menu-only $3 cheese crisps: "impossibly great"; "fine dining having a bourbon after work and just being silly"

· The desserts: "They are original. They're also lusty, often hidden, fearless, and, in the way of something actually original, incomparable."

All in all, despite wondering whether it's actually possible to create original food these days, Moskowitz Grumdahl says: "...why can't I shake the sense that Jim Christiansen's food at his new south Minneapolis restaurant Heyday is shockingly, uncomfortably, meaningfully original?"
· All Week in Reviews [Eater MPLS]