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Rick Nelson on Salt Cellar: 'Intriguing but Uneven'

Star Tribune's Rick Nelson shares his thoughts on Salt Cellar.

Joy Summers

This week in Week in Reviews, the Star Tribune's Rick Nelson visits Cathedral Hill steakhouse, Salt Cellar where an awkward recount of his table-side preparation of Caesar salad leads into his two-star review.

Nelson gave praise to the meat-centric parts of the menu but found imbalances across many other dishes. "The shining star is definitely his eye-catching and well-crafted charcuterie platter, a superb array of terrines, pâtés, hams, sausages and rillettes that Bergo views as a direct reflection of the restaurant’s meat-preservation-minded name." However, he says "when the kitchen goes off the rails, it crash-lands with a resounding thud." Of the non-meat items, he says "I never encountered a pasta that wasn’t inedibly salty. Oh, and an all-vegetable pot-au-feu was disastrous, a sad mélange of limp vegetables and lifeless broth that felt like a punishment for vegetarians daring to dine at steakhouse."

If you go? Get the charcuterie (and the steaks), and skip the tableside service.

The Salt Cellar

173 Western Ave N, Saint Paul, MN 55102 (651) 219-4013