Before the anyone says a word, the pizza is charred, not burned, and that is one of the hallmarks of a perfectly prepared New Haven-style pizza like those about to be served at Minneapolis’ mega-brewery’s newest restaurant Surly Pizza Upstairs. The new spot is, somewhat obviously, located upstairs, above the taproom.
The new spot is being run by Surly’s head chef, Ben Peine who has an affinity for the style of pizza born in a Connecticut town. The crust is long-fermented, pressed thinner - like a Neapolitan and gets a good char from the fire. In this case, Peine uses the brewery’s yeast and allows his dough to cold ferment for four days. The desired result is a crispy edge with a toothsome pull interior. One other distinction is that cheese isn’t a given, but a topping option.
Other toppings include the familiar, like sweet Italian sausage and more creative, like heaps of wild mushrooms and an aged goat cheese. All the pies are named for TV shows and movies that have a notable pizza scene, and requires all the humor crushing explanation of an inside joke.
Pizza lovers order at the counter before finding one of the seats inside or out on the patio. Once the weather starts cooperating, people will be able to grab an order to go and take it with a box and a can of beer down into the huge courtyard, which also happens to be dog friendly. Perfect summer plans for dining with man’s best friend.
In addition to the pizza on the menu, there are a handful each of appetizers, salads and desserts made by Surly’s pastry chef.
Surly Pizza Upstairs opens at 4pm today.