How Adam Eaton is Building a Fine Dining Bagel Shop

The new restaurant on the corner of Bryant and Lake Street is fast taking shape as chef Adam Eaton, hospitality maestro Tim Niver, and the front-of-house maven Laurel Elm pull in the final details of their hotly anticipated new bagel shop, Meyvn. Fans have been tracking this project since Niver shared details via Twitter last summer. What is already known is that there will be Montreal-style bagels, made in a massive wood-fired oven and a full bar.

Eaton, an Eater Young Gun semi-finalist, Elm and Niver also operate Lowertown’s popular Saint Dinette.

Here are all the fresh details:

It’s Meyvn (not Maven or Mervyn)

Eagle-eyed followers caught this change. It seems there was another business in the ‘burbs that did party planning that voiced concerns about sharing a name. A deft switch before the stationary was ordered went with a more appropriate Yiddish spelling.

“Being a bagel shop is not enough for Uptown”

In addition to the bagels everyone has been obsessing about, the menu will also draw inspiration from Philidelphia’s landmark Zahav. By day, there will be bagels and a truly cravable deli sandwich line up that includes pastrami, cheesesteak, Rueben and a Rachel. However, at about 2 pm the bagel production will stop and a raw bar will begin serving. That means oysters, tartare and the like.

In the evenings the menu will shift to Eaton’s version of fine-dining Middle Easter/Israeli food. That that means exactly, only he can know. However, this is the guy that serves the French-landing foods of Saint Dinette. If he can make duck confit tacos, bologna sandwiches and bouillabaisse work appear as a cohesive menu there, he can do it here.

Eaton said, “There are a lot of expectations of what it will be. Middle Easter/Greek/Russian/Polish - all of it is Jewish food.” Adding the refinement means that it’s possible to be eating a Rueben with a side of a half dozen oysters, an idea that the chef gets a kick out of. “We can maybe push people to order a little bit outside of their comfort zone with dishes like Kofta skewers, falafel, shakshuka, hummus and lots of vegetarian and vegan options.”

Meyvn/Facebook

That Room

The restaurant was most recently Tinto and before that Spill the Wine and the room hadn’t changed much until now. The kitchen space has way amped up capacity and windows had to be removed to get the giant wood-burning oven inside. “It’s the coolest thing,” Eaton said. The entire thing will be covered in stainless steel, hexagon tile.

When it opens, so will the patio and all the windows that face Bryant can open completely.

Meyvn/Facebook

A Soda Fountain with a Shot of Manischewitz

Tim Niver was one of the people at the forefront of revolutionizing cocktails in the Twin Cities with his departed Town Talk Diner. He carried on the tradition at the Strip Club and at Saint Dinette, right along with Elm. Both are masters at the craft. This means, expectations are high. That’s probably why, there will be egg creams.

“It’s like a Jewish version of an Italian soda, who doesn’t love those?” said Eaton. Egg Creams will be non-alcoholic, but is also an easy vessel for tossing a shot into.

In addition to the fizzy fun, there will also be several straight-up adult beverages mostly served on tap or in a little bottle for speedy service.

When Is this happening?

Construction is moving quickly, hiring fairs are happening and Eaton’s crew could be testing menu items in as little as two weeks. The goal is to be open before the end of June.

• The Bagels Everyone’s Been Waiting For Arrive in June [ETC]
• Tim Niver’s Service Style: Aquavit, Strip Clubbing and Saint Dinette [ETC]
• Eater Young Gun Semifinalists 2017 [ETC]